I’m on the bullet train back from Naoshima now. It is about a 3.5 hr journey from Osaka to Naoshima. I wouldn’t have done it with anyone other than Robyn, and while it was a very memoriable day, I would not recommend this day trip. I feel bad saying that because Naoshima is a small island, with very few people, who probably get a great benefit out of the three modern art museums and outdoor sculptures scattered around the island, as well as other artful things. I don’t know how much of the island is sustained by tourism and our museum admission prices, but as someone who doesn’t care about modern art, this didn’t inspire me very much.
There are three museums, and the prices range from $11-21 per person. Which is not that bad except there’s maybe only 7-10 pieces of art in each and you’re not allowed to take pictures inside! I did abide by these rules, except once, and it wasn’t even the most amazing thing I saw.
My favorite is the Chichu art museum, because it had the most interesting architecture and five Monet paintings that connected very well with the room and entrance. This was the first museum I’ve been to where I really noticed how the architecture affects the entrance to exhibits which affects your first introduction to them. After standing in the room for a while though, I’m still left with, ok what? It also had a room with a square hole as a view to the sky that was very soothing to sit in, and represented an exhibit but I imagine could have also been the entryway to a rich person’s house. The second best, in my opinion, was the Benesse Art Museum, which had stuff more like the MoMA (ie. Weird random modern stuff mixed with technology). It is bigger so at least you get a longer walk out of it. My least favorite was Lee Ufan which displayed giant rocks as exhibits and was very small. The longest I looked at something in there was a video projection onto a rock which normally I would pass over. I went to open the door leading to what I assumed was the next exhibit but it was locked and was probably a supply closet because the attendant told us to return the way we had came.
We had arrived at 940am. The last ferry leaving the island is around 7pm, a ferry that coincides better with the trains is around 540pm, but thankfully we were ready to leave at 3pm. We woke up at 6am to catch the three trains, one ferry, and one bus to get us to the first museum, and each way is about a 3.5hr journey, so it’s been a long travel day.
I had been worried that we would not finish Naoshima in time, because it recommends you stay one night. Now, I can’t imagine what people do for over a day there. We had been planning on renting bikes but I’m glad we didn’t because they have shuttles running frequently between all the stops you’d ever want, and it was a pretty warm day on the island.
I’m glad we got to eat more of the snacks we brought with us from America. There was very little food to get on the island, once you leave the port area. We have cookies and fig bars and kind bars that just keep getting more crumbly as they sit in our backpack, passed over. There are just so many snacks to eat in Japan that we kept putting them off!
It’s 6pm now, the train arrives in Osaka around 640pm. Supposedly Osaka is the food capital of Japan which puts pressure on us to eat really well tonight. But I find it hard to know where to go, and yesterday we had difficulty finding the restaurant we had researched. Part of me wants to splurge and have a very expensive meal. The other part of me is wary of getting suckered into a tourist trap and would rather have another $10 meal. Well, we bought food from a grocery store in the station to hold us over, so we’re not starving. If anything, I feel a little ill because I essentially just ate a giant platter of food slathered in mayonnaise.
Update: after arriving back in Okayama, we picked up food at a grocery store within the station then continued to our hotel. I wonder if it was the extra sun exposure from the island, but both Robyn and I were beyond exhausted even though the day felt less stressful and less go go go to me than other days. We did wake up much earlier than usual, the segments of transit were long enough to allow some napping and our walking was much more leisurely. But we were still super tired and took a nap at 7pm. I woke up earlier and researched places for our one splurge meal which we wanted to be beef. I’ve been really wary of sushi restaurants here because I don’t want to order a ton and realize the sushi is lower quality than I hoped. Plus I just have such high expectations for fish here and I also think I could get really good sushi for just as expensive in America. Fancy Japanese beef, however, I can’t get in America. So it seems more special! (Note: IT WAS!)
We went out to eat around 9pm, though walking to the place really meant a 945pm dinnertime after meandering and taking photos. The restaurant is some long name I’ll have to look up later, but it was a bit hard to find though once we found it, it was kind of like a grand sign that just appeared on the corner of a street. It’s also another branch of the same restaurant we had gone to the night before for the sake tasting and marbled beef. I’m glad we tried a new location, which seemed like the main one. We didn’t need reservations at all, probably because it was so late already. You take your shoes off in the restaurant and sit in those booths where your feet are lower than the floor and there’s a grill in front of you. We opted for a medium meal, as in not lean meat and not premium, fatty meat which I’m thankful for because the fattest cut we had was way too fatty for me.
The meal came with a meat appetizer which was two thin beef slices soaked in ponzu sauce, a salad, three vegetable dishes, an amazingly yummy garlic rice cooked in a stone pot. The main course was the beef, I think we had five cuts of meat that we got two thick slices each of, and this was concluded with a yuzu sorbet. I thought it was the perfect splurge meal and my only complaint would be that people smoked in the restaurant and toward the end the server was clearly rushing us out even though it wasn’t midnight yet, their closing time.
On our walk to find the restaurant, we passed by many of the giant signs that are famous in Osaka. Giant sea creatures like octopus and crabs… very cool! Tons of people on the street though walking every which way. It seems hard to know who is a resident and who is traveling through. I didn’t get a chance to eat another snow ice from the place we went to last night – by the time we even left for the restaurant, it had already closed. In my food research of Osaka, I found out that there are not that many dessert places here (compared to Tokyo where it seemed that that was all they had) and Osaka’s famous foods are udon, yakonori (the grilled beef we had), okonomiyaki (noodles made into a pancake with egg which we had eaten in Kyoto station not knowing it was famous in Osaka), and takoyaki. There is even octopus on skewers with a quail egg stuffed in the head which I would’ve tried but never was hungry when I saw it and it does seem more barbaric than other meats on sticks.
Other than that, I still think there’s not that much to do in Osaka other than shopping eating drinking and smoking on the streets of Dotonburi and Shinsaibashi. And looking at all the cool giant signs.