I’m on the shinkansen (bullet train) from Osaka to Naoshima right now. Naoshima will be our day trip out of Osaka, since in my research, I didn’t find anything interesting in Osaka. Supposedly Osaka is a good place for nightlife and as we walked around yesterday, we did see a lot of clubs, bars, and restaurants, but we’re not going to go clubbing, I don’t really drink, and there’s only so much you can eat.
I somewhat hate Osaka because everyone smokes here and it’s very bothersome to me. The most disgusting thing was yesterday we went to eat sushi and people smoked in the restaurant. The nigiri was HUGE but we only got four types before I made us leave. Robyn said I looked like I was about to throw up at the sushi bar. I don’t get how anyone can smoke and eat sushi because it completely ruins any flavor. Way more people just stand on the street and smoke here too and I’ve stood next to a lot more people who reek of smoke compared to Tokyo or Kyoto.
Yesterday I woke up early enough to walk to Maruyama Park and try to capture some of the fall foliage in sunlight. It was a 80 minute roundup round trip walk from the hotel and of course I was too cheap to use a taxi which would’ve given me half an hour more of walking. Oh well. I have now walked the main streets of Gion, the shopping area of Kyoto, seven times and each time, various shops were closed because I either went too late or too early. I have tried to go to Nishiki Market twice on my own but both times I was too early.
The park was nice and not crowded though I was a bit rushed. I listened to my Katie Couric podcasts the whole time which was relaxing. I wasn’t able to reach the two temples in the park, but that’s ok, I have gotten templed out!
I walked back and stopped at the bakery across from our hotel where I had gotten some goods the previous morning. An excellent bakery! My favorite is the egg sandwich, which I want to find more of in Japan. It was nice to have these and just eat in the hotel room before checking out.
I got back, packed and we checked out and left our luggage at the hotel. Then took a bus to the Sanjusangen-do temple (so weird that this phone knew how to spell that! Does my dictionary track what I browse on the Internet?). The bus was a 35min ride while the subway would take just as long but require a 20 min walk. So Kyoto is not really as subway friendly as Tokyo and I would not recommend getting one day passes in Kyoto because I felt like we did quite a few things and each time, we had to use different modes of transportation, but it’s unlikely you would go to so many places it would warrant an pass for all modes of transit.
Unfortunately the temple didn’t allow pictures which is a huge bummer. Regardless it was still very interesting to walk through. The temple features 1001 statues, I believe all wood but gold painted with crystals for eyes. Almost all of them look like soldiers, with several hands. Then there are some representing different gods, which are displayed closer to the walkway. And the main one is a giant Buddha, giant like floor to ceiling. It is one of the longest temples built in Japan and has several interesting architectural features to deal with earthquakes. It was once painted very ornately, I guess back in the 13th century, but now is pretty much just black.
They had gardens outside, not the most amazing but a nice walk. We caught a bus back to Gion which dropped us right at Marayuma Park. So then we did our final walk down that main street of Gion, this time going through Nishiki Market which is a covered food stall area similar to La Boqueria in Spain. Despite how beautiful so much of Japanese desserts and meals are, for some reason I don’t find their food markets very photogenic. The fish market is, but I guess Nishiki Market, mainly selling preserved foods and random stuff, was not as colorful. It’s like taking a picture of the packaged goods aisle of a 99 Ranch.
We only got a little take out tuna sashimi, which was pretty is good. We ate it on the side of the street corner. Robyn had also gotten a matcha latte from a green tea store that looked very serious about its green tea. On the walk back toward the hotel, I saw a display case of various Japanese foods that looked good AND cheap so we decided to get lunch there. Upon sitting down, we realized that it seemed like the Denny’s of Japan – touristy, served all the general foods of Japan, but not amazing. Oh well, the service was nice, the food was ok, and we got very full!
Ready to leave for Osaka, we returned to our hotel, got our stuff then set off for our last city, if you don’t count our return to Tokyo. You can just take a local train to Osaka from Kyoto, it is about 30 min. Our hotel was by the main shopping/nightlife area of Osaka, by the station Shinsaibashi.
The hotel is… not my best pick. It is a 8.2 on travel websites but maybe that is a steeper grading curve than I realized. It does feel like a hotel you would take a prostitute or a second lover to. Very bare bones hotel, with thin walls and poor amenities. Sigh. We are there another night then headed to Tokyo for a night in a capsule hotel although I offered to spring for a better hotel. They did provide breakfast but sadly because we had to wake up at the crack of dawn to set off for Naoshima. I will admit that I didn’t care about missing out on breakfast, because I assumed from the lackluster hotel room, that the breakfast would be terrible. Note from the future, the breakfast was actually AMAZING, potentially one of the best complimentary hotel breakfasts I’ve ever experienced.
Anyway, we walked around Shinsaibashi / Dotonburi after lying around on our springy mattress. On the main street there are shops like Burberry, Fendi, etc and just on the other side it’s a mall mixed with some restaurants and then just a block away it becomes a bunch of tiny one way streets filled with bars, restaurants, clubs on several levels. This is a city where many things seem to be above the first level and I wonder if the best restaurants are above ground and tourist spots are at the first level. This seems opposite of Tokyo, where a lot of the best places are underground, sometimes in subway stations. In Osaka, or maybe just specifically in Shinsaibashi, there are a lot of taxis, a lot of people, no sidewalks, and the taxi drivers are much more aggressive and drive faster here than in Tokyo or Kyoto, despite all of the above. Tons of people are also smoking in the street, whereas in Tokyo they have designated smoking areas so you wouldn’t notice the cigarette smoke as much.
We got sushi first, those few bites in that smoky restaurant. Then we did a sake bar where Robyn did a sake tasting for ¥600 and we each got a marbled beef sushi for ¥580 each. It was good but I just realized we could’ve had two burgers or one decent burger for that price. Then we attempted another takoyashi snack and it was once again HORRIBLE. I need to find out where Gindaco is. Lastly, we went to a dessert cafe where I ordered a black sesame snow ice and it was EVERYTHING. Perfect snow ice texture that wouldn’t melt and wasn’t slushy. Scoop of red bean paste, peanut powder in the middle and black sesame all over the top. This will be the redeeming feature of Osaka for me.